The chef named World’s Best Female Chef of 2023 just put cucumber in dessert, and she’s not the only one

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Pastry chefs who spent years building desserts around fruit are trying something else this summer: a handful of them have put cucumbers, carrots and corn on the dessert menu, not as a garnish or an afterthought, but as the entire point of the dish. None of these chefs coordinated with each other; they are scattered from a resort on Mexico’s Pacific coast to a steakhouse on the Las Vegas Strip, and yet they landed on strikingly similar ideas within weeks. What started as isolated experiments now reads like the beginning of something bigger.

A person in a chef’s uniform, inspired by the World’s Best Female Chef, slices a cucumber on a wooden cutting board with a knife—perhaps preparing ingredients for an innovative cucumber dessert.
Photo credit: Depositphotos.

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Produce is at its peak in midsummer, and pastry kitchens are under real pressure to say something new with the same peaches and berries every menu already leans on. Vegetables offer a way out: a familiar shape, like carrot cake, rebuilt from scratch, or a completely unfamiliar one, like a spoonful of cold cucumber sorbet after a hot day of service. Some chefs are chasing restraint. Others want a dessert that tastes like where it was made, built from whatever is growing closest to the kitchen door. The common thread is not a trend anyone read about. It is a decision made independently, plate by plate.

4 kitchens, no coordination

Four properties, spread from the Las Vegas Strip to a mountainside in Tennessee to a resort on Mexico’s Pacific coast, landed on the same idea within weeks of each other, without comparing notes. One kitchen is led in part by Elena Reygadas, named the World’s Best Female Chef 2023 for her advocacy of regional Mexican ingredients. If a chef with that kind of standing is willing to build a dessert around a cucumber, it is worth asking who else is doing the same thing.

Coyul: Restraint, built on 3 ingredients

At Coyul, inside Four Seasons Resort Tamarindo on Mexico’s Costalegre coast, pastry chef de partie Andrés Herrera builds a cucumber and mint sorbet finished with Cuyutlán sea salt, a regional ingredient chosen specifically because it deepens the cucumber’s flavor rather than covering it.

Reygadas said the goal was to use what already exists in the region instead of importing ingredients that travel long distances. “Use what you have in the region,” she said. “Respect seasonality, highlight the ingredient, and put technique at the service of the product.” The dessert leans on three ingredients and nothing more.

CUT Las Vegas: An old favorite, rebuilt

Inside The Venetian Resort, CUT Las Vegas pastry chef Nicole Erle rebuilt one of the country’s most familiar desserts as a Baked Alaska. Her carrot cake version layers toasted walnut ice cream, cream cheese icing, torched meringue and roasted pineapple.

Erle said the point was not to disguise carrot cake but to refine it. “We did not want to disguise carrot cake, but to refine it, preserving its warmth while giving it the contrast and precision of a Baked Alaska,” she said. The dish keeps the dessert’s identity intact while changing how it arrives at the table.

Blackberry Mountain: A palate cleanser, not a finale

In the hills outside Knoxville, Tennessee, Blackberry Mountain pastry chef Garrett Dodson built a dessert for the resort’s Three Sisters restaurant using macerated cucumbers, a cucumber granita infused with Thai basil and mint, and a cucumber-lime sorbet finished with fresh basil and a drizzle of olive oil.

The dish reads more like a palate cleanser than a finale, which is precisely the idea: a light, herbaceous plate built for a hot Tennessee summer rather than a rich one. It represents the resort’s broader approach of building desserts around whatever is in peak season nearby.

Centrolina: Corn, treated like the main ingredient

In Washington, D.C., Centrolina pastry chef Pichet Ong turned sweet corn into a silky, pudding-like custard called Corn Crema, made from corn milk and vanilla. The dish traces back to Southeast Asian street snacks Ong worked with earlier in his career, reworked here alongside a caramelized semolina and condensed milk pound cake, and a grilled corn and cherry salad. Rather than treating corn as a savory ingredient that occasionally appears on a dessert menu, Ong built the entire course around it, sweetness, texture and all.

Where this goes next

If four kitchens can land on the same idea without talking to each other, summer produce may be doing more work in pastry departments than it used to. Vegetables give chefs something fruit cannot always offer: restraint, a savory edge and a reason to slow a dessert course down instead of closing a meal on pure sugar. None of these dishes reads as a stunt. Each one ties back to the kitchen’s location, whether that’s coastal Mexican sea salt or Tennessee basil. If the pattern holds, more menus may start treating the vegetable drawer as fair game for the last course of the night.

None of these four chefs are calling this permanent, and that may be exactly why it works. A carrot cake, a cucumber, an ear of corn: these are ordinary ingredients pastry kitchens have always had access to. What has changed is a willingness to let them lead the course instead of finishing it. The next dessert that surprises a table might not come from a new ingredient at all, just an old one used differently.

Jennifer Allen is a retired chef turned traveler, cookbook author and nationally syndicated journalist; she’s also a co-founder of Food Drink Life, where she shares expert travel tips, cruise insights and luxury destination guides. A recognized cruise expert with a deep passion for high-end experiences and off-the-beaten-path destinations, Jennifer explores the world with curiosity, depth and a storyteller’s perspective. Her articles are regularly featured on the Associated Press Wire, The Washington Post, Seattle Times, MSN and more.

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