In South Carolina’s Upstate, a paved trail follows an old rail line for 10 miles between downtown Greenville and the small town of Travelers Rest, and October is the best time to explore it. The humidity that makes a summer ride hot and sticky is gone, the trail empties out on weekday mornings, and for a few weeks in late fall, the maples and sweetgums along the Reedy River turn the kind of red and gold that stops riders mid-pedal. The Swamp Rabbit Trail is the region’s best-known bike path, and fall is the prettiest time to actually ride all 10 miles end to end.
Downtown Greenville spent decades rebuilding around Falls Park and the Reedy River waterfall after textile manufacturing declined, and the trail became the thread linking that revival to the small towns north of it. Along the way, a real restaurant scene grew up on both ends, the kind that shows up on national radar without really trying. Fall is when the ride itself, not just the destinations, is the reason to go.
How Greenville got here
The recognition has piled up fast this year, and it hasn’t all been about restaurants. On July 1, CNN Travel ranked Greenville No. 3 on its America’s Best Towns to Visit 2026 list, citing its parks and trails, urban renewal and food scene together. It also named the Swamp Rabbit Trail directly for the way it winds past Cleveland Park and the Greenville Zoo on its way through town. That renewal traces back further than any of it: Liberty Bridge went up at Falls Park in the early 2000s, and the decades of downtown growth that followed are usually credited to that one project.
Food credentials have piled up at the same clip. Season 23 of “Top Chef,” filmed in Charlotte and Greenville in 2025 and aired earlier this year. This season included a Quickfire Challenge that sent the cheftestants straight onto the Swamp Rabbit Trail itself, judged by the Try Guys’ Keith Habersberger and Rachel Ann Cole. National Geographic covered the city’s rise as a food destination in January, with chef Nico Abello describing Greenville as having reached “a critical mass of talented chefs and restaurateurs who are committed to the city.”
Michelin, whose North American headquarters sits in Greenville, brought its inaugural Michelin Guide American South announcement to the Peace Center on Nov. 3, 2025, the same night the city earned its first Michelin star. Scoundrel, a French bistro at 18 N. Main St. from Greenville native chef Joe Cash, took the star. Cash spent years in Thomas Keller’s Per Se kitchen in New York before returning home to open it.
Topsoil Kitchen & Market, at the opposite end of the trail in Travelers Rest, was named a Michelin Guide Recommended restaurant that same night. Its chef, Adam Cooke, was one of the guest judges for that trail-set Quickfire.
Riding it in fall
Start downtown at Falls Park, where the trail crosses the Reedy River just below the waterfall, and head north. From there, it’s a straight 10 miles to Travelers Rest along the Prisma Health Swamp Rabbit Trail Network, an old railroad bed that stays flat and fully paved the whole way, manageable on a standard road or hybrid bike.
Reedy Rides, downtown near Falls Park, rents bikes by the half or full day and can point new riders toward the trailhead. Pedego Electric Bikes sits right on the trail itself at Hampton Station, a couple miles north, so anyone who wants an e-bike partway through the ride, or who’s starting from that end instead, doesn’t have to backtrack downtown first.
Fall color in Greenville County usually peaks in late October and runs into early November, and Falls Park and the trail itself are two of the first spots locals point to. A dry summer across the Upstate has some forecasters watching for an earlier, more muted turn this year. However, the better stretch for it is still through Furman University, where the trail skirts Swan Lake beneath the campus bell tower before opening into farmland on the approach to Travelers Rest.
About 2 miles north of downtown, Swamp Rabbit Café & Grocery sits trailside at 205 Cedar Lane Rd. The cafe buys from more than 300 local farmers and food makers and builds its sandwiches on house-baked stecca bread, alongside specialty coffee for riders who need the excuse to stop. Co-founder Mary Walsh has said the trail shaped both the cafe’s name and its philosophy from the start.
The payoff in Travelers Rest
North of Furman, the foothills start to rise, and Travelers Rest comes into view. Just off the trail at 13 S. Main St., Topsoil Kitchen & Market is the finish line for many riders. Chef Adam Cooke, a 2020 James Beard Award semifinalist for Best Chef: Southeast, changes the menu with the seasons.
This fall’s lineup includes a Noonday Farm Duck Leg Confit with spaghetti squash, Brussels sprouts and burnt orange jus, and a Clem’s Organics Sunchoke and Apple Soup finished with brown butter apple crema, all built from the same web of Upstate farms that supply the kitchen year-round. Reservations are worth booking ahead on fall weekends.
Riders were doing this loop before Michelin or CNN noticed any of it, and that’s still true this fall. Riders will keep pulling off for a sandwich or a seat at Topsoil long after this year’s headlines fade, and the color along the Reedy River will come back every October whether a camera crew shows up or not. That’s the part built to last: two towns, 10 miles of trail and enough reason along the way to ride it end to end.
Jennifer Allen is a retired chef turned traveler, cookbook author and nationally syndicated journalist; she’s also a co-founder of Food Drink Life, where she shares expert travel tips, cruise insights and luxury destination guides. A recognized cruise expert with a deep passion for high-end experiences and off-the-beaten-path destinations, Jennifer explores the world with curiosity, depth and a storyteller’s perspective. Her articles are regularly featured on the Associated Press Wire, The Washington Post, Seattle Times, MSN and more.