Retrobottega, the rooftop restaurant at Rhinoceros Roma in Rome’s historic center, serves a savory gelato made with an ingredient from China. The chef first came across it in a dish he didn’t cook. The story of how it reached a Roman menu starts with an art exhibition and a Chinese artist.
For the opening dinner of the hotel’s latest exhibition, Chinese artist Xie Fan stepped into Retrobottega’s kitchen and made mapo tofu, a traditional Sichuan dish from his hometown of Chengdu. The hotel calls it a highlight of the night. It also introduced chef Alessandro Miocchi to douchi, fermented black soybeans known for their rich umami flavor.
The Gelato Started With an Art Show
The exhibition, “XI NIU: In Search of New Routes,” brings together seven Chinese artists and artist duos. Their work in the hotel’s gallery spans painting, sculpture, film and mixed media. For his own art, Xie fires mineral pigments and oxides onto raw clay and terracotta.
Claire Shiying Li, an independent curator based in London, organized the show around the historic Silk Road. The works look at how ideas and traditions traveled between China and Europe over centuries. According to the hotel, the kitchen collaboration is also part of the exhibition.
What Miocchi Did With Douchi
Inspired by the ingredient, Miocchi worked douchi into an unconventional savory gelato called Gelato Salato. The hotel says the dish blends Chinese culinary traditions with Italian creativity. You can still order it at Retrobottega, so it lasted well beyond that opening dinner.
The Art Doesn’t Stay in the Gallery
Parts of XI NIU sit outside the gallery and spread through the rest of the property. Guests find sparkling water cans designed for the show, Chinese-inspired artwork and vending machines.
Those vending machines hold nostalgic Chinese childhood snacks and XI NIU merchandise you can’t buy anywhere else. The hotel says these touches let guests experience Chinese culture beyond the artwork itself.
Who’s Behind Rhinoceros Roma
Alda Fendi, of the Italian fashion family, opened Rhinoceros Roma in 2016 as an avant-garde boutique hotel. French architect Jean Nouvel designed the property.
Rhinoceros Roma holds 25 luxury apartments and an art gallery. Retrobottega sits on the roof and overlooks the historic heart of Rome.
See the Show, Then Order the Gelato
XI NIU stays on view in the hotel’s gallery through Jan. 6, 2027. If you’re in Rome before then, walk through the show first and see the Silk Road works up close. Then head up to the roof and order the Gelato Salato that Xie’s mapo tofu set in motion.