Nshima, Zambia’s much-loved staple, takes nothing more than finely ground maize flour and water. Diners traditionally eat it by hand alongside a variety of relishes, vegetables, meats and fish. Those sides change with the region and the season, so the plate looks different from one part of the country to the next.
Lusaka and Livingstone make good starting points, because both cities have restaurants that serve nshima with traditional sides. Lusaka’s markets show where many of the ingredients begin, and Livingstone adds riverside dining on the Zambezi.
Dishes To Look For
Four dishes show the range of Zambian cooking, and two of them center on greens. Ifisashi is a rich sauce of groundnuts and leafy vegetables, while cooks make chibwabwa from pumpkin leaves.
Cooks usually dry and fry kapenta, a small freshwater fish, until crisp and often serve it with tomatoes and onions. Chikanda, which some people call African polony, combines wild orchid tubers with groundnuts. Choosing sustainably sourced tubers helps protect wild orchid populations.
Try Nshima in Lusaka
Mpoto Yathu Zambia in Lusaka, whose name means “Our Pot,” combines traditional dishes and grilled specialties with contemporary preparation. Its signature Shoka Steak and Nshima pairs flame-grilled steak with nshima and traditional vegetables. Jelena Kraljic, the restaurant’s director, said, “Our goal is to show that Zambian cuisine deserves a place on the international culinary stage.”
See the Ingredients at Lusaka’s Markets
New Soweto Market is one of the capital’s busiest markets, and traders sell everything from seasonal vegetables and fresh fruit to dried fish and beans. Look for impwa, a type of African eggplant, and bondwe, a leafy green that cooks commonly prepare as a relish.
Tuesday Market on Nationalist Road stocks seasonal produce, and shoppers may find wild mushrooms there during the rains. Thornpark Market on Wamulwa Road and Longacres Market on Los Angeles Boulevard sell seasonal fruits and vegetables along with staples such as maize.
Livingstone and the Zambezi River
In Livingstone, Zest Bar and Restaurant on Mosi-oa-Tunya Road serves nshima with vegetables and grilled meats. Locals and visitors both like the relaxed setting.
People know Zambia best for its wildlife and national parks, yet one hotel has several restaurants that overlook the Zambezi River. At The Old Drift, in The Royal Livingstone Victoria Falls Zambia Hotel by Anantara, the contemporary menu pairs traditional Zambian ingredients with European dishes. Options include whole Zambian bream and slow-braised oxtail stew.
Royal Chundu, further upstream on the Zambezi, offers a Zambian tasting menu with wine pairings. Chef George Nalisa leads the kitchen, and dishes include quail smoked with berries and creamy spinach with groundnuts. The lodge sources ingredients from surrounding communities and its own gardens.
Olga’s Supports Youth Training in Livingstone
If you want a break from nshima, Olga’s The Italian Corner in Livingstone serves wood-fired pizzas and homemade Italian dishes. The restaurant began as part of a vocational training project, and its profits support the Youth Community Training Centre, which provides training and employment opportunities for young people. Find it on Mokambo Road, an easy stop for travelers who want a casual meal that also gives back.