Some Scotch distilleries still do it the hard way, on purpose

Photo of author

| Published:

Most Scotch distilleries source their malt from commercial maltsters rather than malt it by hand. A few never got that memo, and they’re still doing things the hard way today. National Scotch Day is the perfect day to find out what all that stubbornness actually tastes like.

Whiskey is being poured into a faceted glass on a wooden surface, with wooden barrels blurred in the background.
Photo credit: Depositphotos.

As production expanded, many distilleries handed some of their most time-consuming work to outside specialists. Malting barley on a stone floor takes days and a full crew, while ordering malt from a commercial maltster takes a phone call. Building and repairing casks means keeping a cooperage staffed and a coppersmith on the payroll. Buying finished casks eliminates both. Efficiency won almost everywhere, and most drinkers reaching for a bottle on July 27, National Scotch Day, never stop to ask which path their own pour actually took.

Glenmorangie builds its stills tall

Glenmorangie has been distilling in the Highlands for more than 180 years, using some of the tallest copper pot stills in Scotland, a height that forces the spirit to travel further before condensing, producing a lighter, more delicate character. The distillery’s cask program goes further than most, including bespoke designer casks built from slow-growth, air-seasoned white oak sourced from the Mark Twain Forest in Missouri.

Dr. Bill Lumsden, who has overseen Glenmorangie’s whisky-making for more than 30 years, is the only five-time winner of the International Whisky Competition’s Master Distiller of the Year award. In 2025, he was awarded an MBE by King Charles III for services to the Scotch whisky industry.

“Glenmorangie strikes a unique balance for consumers, offering whiskies that are complex enough to be engaging for connoisseurs, yet approachable for those new to single malts,” said Dan Crowell, Glenmorangie’s U.S. ambassador. “The progression of age statements and extra-matured expressions in the Glenmorangie range provide a diverse exploration pathway for consumers, while consistently delivering the distillery’s house style of citrusy richness and floral resonance. Glenmorangie is recognized for providing an excellent price-to-quality ratio across its range of expressions.”

That house style comes through clearly in the 12 Year Old. “Glenmorangie 12 is smoother, creamier and even more complex than I expected,” said Heidi Bruaw, a recipe developer and Scotch lover at Real Life of Lulu. “On the nose, you get citrus and ripening peaches balanced by a soft vanilla, then on the palate, that vanilla gives way to a burst of flowery fruitiness. The finish is the real surprise: it lingers way longer than you’d expect, with almond, coconut and a touch of maple syrup.”

For drinkers who won’t make it to the Highlands anytime soon, the whisky still travels well into a cocktail glass. “Glenmorangie is a great introduction to Highland single malt Scotch whisky. Distilled in Scotland’s tallest stills, it produces an elegant, light and smooth spirit,” said Luis Zammaretto, a bartender at The Flatiron Room in New York City, New York. “Those characteristics make it a fantastic base for cocktails, with my favorite being our signature cocktail, the ‘Rockstar Martini,’ made with a Glenmorangie Triple Cask Reserve, passion fruit puree, vanilla syrup and lemon juice. We serve it in a coupe glass with a dehydrated lemon wheel.”

Balvenie still grows its own barley

Balvenie, founded in 1892 next door to Glenfiddich in Speyside, is built around what the distillery calls its Five Rare Crafts: growing its own barley, malting a portion of it by hand on a traditional floor, maintaining an on-site cooperage and a coppersmith and keeping a dedicated Malt Master over cask selection. No other distillery in Scotland still does all five in-house.

David Stewart, who holds an MBE, served as Balvenie’s Malt Master for more than 50 years before handing the role to his successor, Kelsey McKechnie, who continues the same hands-on approach to maturation and cask selection.

Springbank never outsources a step

Springbank, in Campbeltown, is the only distillery in Scotland that malts 100% of its own barley using traditional floor malting, and the only one that completes every stage of production, from malting through bottling, on a single site. Founded in 1828, it is Scotland’s oldest independent, family-owned distillery, still run today by the Mitchell family through J&A Mitchell & Co.

Where most of the industry buys finished malt and casks and centralizes production for efficiency, Springbank has never made that trade. Every barrel that becomes a bottle of Springbank passed through the same hands, on the same property, from barley to bottle.

Effort shows up in the glass

These three approaches don’t make one distillery’s whisky better than another’s built on outsourced malt and bought casks. They do mean something real is different in the glass: a lighter spirit shaped by an unusually tall still, a Speyside malt with a barley cellar and a cooperage still in daily use; a Campbeltown single malt that never left one property on its way from grain to bottle. Pouring one of these three on National Scotch Day means pouring the whole process behind it, not just what’s on the label.

Mandy Applegate is the creator behind Splash of Taste and seven other high-profile food and travel blogs. She’s also the co-founder of Food Drink Life Inc., a unique and highly rewarding collaborative blogger project. Her articles appear frequently on major online news sites, and she always has her eyes open to spot the next big trend.

Leave a Comment

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.