Chefs working a summer farmers market head straight for the same seven things before anyone else gets there, and not one of them is the produce that photographs best. Peak stone fruit, dry-farmed tomatoes and a handful of other picks disappear off the tables first, long before the rest of the morning crowd even knows to look for them. Everything else, however good it looks, can wait its turn.
Farmers markets run on a clock most grocery aisles never have to keep. Some of the best things on the table are only good for a few days, and a shopper who understands that tends to build a list around the calendar rather than wander in with a general craving for something fresh. That difference in approach is what separates a full basket of the season’s best from a basket of whatever still happens to be sitting out.
Stone fruit season closes fast
Nothing at the market punishes procrastination quite like locally grown stone fruit. Peaches, plums and nectarines reach their peak at different times depending on the region and variety, but each has a limited local harvest window. That brief availability is part of why chefs treat stone fruit season like an event rather than another permanent produce category.
“Stone fruit is the one thing at the farmers market I get almost territorial about,” said chef Jenn Allen of Cook What You Love. “That season is so short you almost have to plan your meals around when the peaches and plums show up, not the other way around. But that’s exactly why it tastes better. A peach that traveled two states in a truck is never going to compare to one that was picked yesterday, a mile from where you’re standing.”
Dry-farmed tomatoes pack concentrated flavor
Growers cut back irrigation on dry-farmed tomatoes once the plants are established, relying on the moisture the soil already holds below the surface. The method works best in climates and soils that retain enough winter or early-season moisture to carry the plants through summer. The plants and tomatoes are often smaller, while the fruit may develop more concentrated sugars and flavor.
Growers often trade some yield and size for a more concentrated result. A dry-farmed tomato may be smaller and sometimes thicker-skinned than a heavily irrigated one, but at its peak, it needs little more than salt and olive oil.
Heirlooms offer harder-to-find varieties
Farmers markets can offer heirloom varieties that are difficult to find through conventional produce channels. Many of them are too delicate for long-distance distribution because they bruise or crack easily.
“In the summer, my farmers market basket is always brimming with all sorts of seasonal fruits and vegetables. But what’s non-negotiable for me? A few heirloom tomatoes,” said chef Molly of Vanilla Bean Cuisine. “Heirlooms are grown specifically for their flavor and texture, and are often varieties that have been grown for generations. Their thinner skins mean they are too delicate to be transported to a traditional grocery store, so often markets are the only place you can find them. I love to pair them with burrata cheese and fresh basil for a light salad, or use them to top a puff pastry tomato tart,”
Squash blossoms fade quickly
Few things a farmer brings to market are as fragile as squash blossoms. Growers harvest the flowers the day they open, since quality drops quickly after that. That fragility makes local markets and farm stands some of the most reliable places to find them in good condition.
Their appeal comes less from a powerful flavor than from their tender texture and mild squashlike taste. Cooks can stuff them with ricotta and herbs and fry them quickly, though they also work raw, torn into salads or folded into a simple saute.
Fresh shell beans need no soaking
Most shoppers encounter beans only after they have been dried or canned. Fresh shell beans are harvested before the seeds fully dry inside their pods, giving them a brief late-summer season and a softer, creamier texture after cooking.
Unlike dried beans, they do not need an overnight soak and generally become tender after a relatively short simmer. Their texture sits somewhere between a fresh pea and a fully dried bean, making them particularly good in simple salads, soups and braises.
Garlic scapes have a brief season
Hardneck garlic produces curling flower stalks called scapes, which growers usually cut while they are still young and tender. Removing them creates a marketable crop while directing more of the plant’s energy toward the bulb. Because most supermarket garlic is a softneck type that does not normally produce scapes, farmers markets, farm shares and specialty produce shops are among the best places to find them.
The crop’s season is brief and varies by region, usually occurring in late spring or early summer. The flavor is milder and greener than that of a mature garlic clove, making scapes useful when grilled whole, sautéed or blended into pesto.
Freshness matters most with corn
Traditional sweet corn begins converting sugar to starch after harvest, which is why freshly picked ears can taste noticeably sweeter and more tender. Newer sugar-enhanced and supersweet varieties hold their sweetness longer, but prompt cooling and cooking still help preserve quality.
Look for plump ears with fresh green husks and silks that have begun to brown, but that are still moist and soft. Ask before peeling back a husk at the stand, then refrigerate the corn and cook it as soon as practical.
Plan ahead
Farmers markets reward shoppers who pay attention to what is coming into season and what is about to leave it. The best purchase is not always the largest tomato or the most polished peach. Sometimes it is the crop with only a few harvests left, the variety too delicate for a long trip or the ingredient that tastes best within hours of leaving the field.
Jennifer Allen is a retired professional chef and long-time writer. Her work appears in dozens of publications, including MSN, Yahoo, The Washington Post and The Seattle Times. These days, she’s busy in the kitchen developing recipes and traveling the world, and you can find all her best creations at Cook What You Love.