Travelers heading for Banff are starting to slow down and look around. Along Alberta’s mountain highways, many are stopping in Kananaskis, a region that’s quietly becoming one of the Rockies’ most rewarding discoveries. In 2024, the area welcomed about 5 million visitors, a notable rise from pre-pandemic years as more people look for space, scenery and smaller crowds.
I visited Kananaskis in July and saw firsthand why it’s gaining attention. Morning light spilled across Barrier Lake, the air smelled of pine and rain, and the only sounds were wind and water. It felt close to Banff in beauty but different in pace; it was more about reflection than rushing from one photo stop to the next. Once mainly known to Albertans, Kananaskis is now drawing hikers, families and luxury travelers who want room to roam and a deeper connection to the landscape.
A purpose-built wilderness
Kananaskis Country spans more than 4,000 square kilometers, or about 1,544 square miles, of Alberta’s eastern Rockies. This area is a patchwork of provincial parks, crown land and ecological reserves designed to make wilderness accessible without overwhelming it. Just an hour west of Calgary, it’s one of the province’s easiest escapes.
The Alberta government created Kananaskis in 1978 under Premier Peter Lougheed, envisioning it as a model for balancing recreation and conservation. The approach worked: by 2024, the region welcomed about 5 million visitors, as more travelers sought its wide-open landscapes and quieter trails.
Banff vs. Kananaskis
In peak season, Banff’s landmarks such as Lake Louise and Johnston Canyon fill up early, leaving little space to slow down. When I visited Kananaskis, I found the opposite. Trails like Rawson Lake, near Upper Kananaskis Lake, and Ptarmigan Cirque, just off Highwood Pass, offered the same alpine drama without the crowds. At times, I didn’t see another hiker for hours.
A Kananaskis Conservation Pass costs less than Banff’s daily permit and covers an entire vehicle. With few commercial attractions and plenty of pull-off spots for picnics and short hikes, the region feels built for people who want to explore on their own time rather than follow a schedule.
Hiking, lakes and wildlife
Kananaskis feels built for exploration at every level. Families walk the gentle paths around Barrier Lake or Elbow Falls, while seasoned hikers set out on longer routes that climb toward sweeping ridgelines and glacier-fed valleys. When I visited in July, frequent signage reminded us it was bear season. We carried bear spray and made noise along the trail, a small precaution to keep both us and the wildlife safe.
Along the highways, I often saw bighorn sheep grazing on the shoulders, unfazed by traffic and perfect for a quick roadside photo. In the wetlands, moose sometimes wade through the shallows, and above the treeline, golden eagles ride the thermals.
The adventure doesn’t stop at the trail. Down by the water, Kananaskis Outfitters rents kayaks, canoes and paddleboards for anyone wanting to explore the lakes up close. Evenings bring another kind of magic. Without city glow, the night sky turns jet black and thick with stars; it’s an amazing spot for stargazing.
Where travelers stay
At the heart of Kananaskis Village, the Pomeroy Kananaskis Mountain Lodge anchors the region with mountain charm and understated luxury. Originally built to support Alberta’s hosting of the 1988 Winter Olympics, it has twice stepped into the global spotlight, first hosting the 2002 G8 Summit and again welcoming world leaders for the 51st G7 Summit in June 2025.
Today, the lodge feels like a blend of alpine retreat and modern resort. Guests wake to mountain air and trails that begin almost at the doorstep. Inside, several on-site restaurants showcase regional flavors, a full-service Kananaskis Nordic Spa features an outdoor hydrotherapy circuit, and the private Black Diamond Club provides personalized concierge service, lounge access and elevated amenities.
“Kananaskis has this quiet kind of magic you can’t quite put into words. The mountains feel closer, the trails a little wilder and the air somehow cleaner,” says Bella Bucchiotti of xoxoBella. “I love Banff, but Kananaskis just feels more personal, like you’ve stumbled on a secret the crowds haven’t found yet. It’s where you go when you want to truly be in the Rockies, not just visit them.”
A shift toward regenerative travel
Tourism Canmore Kananaskis has introduced a Regenerative Tourism Action Plan guided by a triple bottom line that values environmental health and community wellbeing alongside economic vitality. Its goals include cutting carbon emissions, advancing truth and reconciliation with Indigenous partners, restoring nature and sharing the region’s story through education and outreach.
The quiet alternative
Banff may hold the spotlight, but Kananaskis is defining its own kind of mountain escape. Travelers come for alpine scenery and stay for the calm that’s harder to find elsewhere. With fewer crowds and open trails, it offers space to explore and reconnect with the Rockies at an easier pace.
Jennifer Allen is a retired chef turned traveler, cookbook author and nationally syndicated journalist; she’s also a co-founder of Food Drink Life, where she shares expert travel tips, cruise insights and luxury destination guides. A recognized cruise expert with a deep passion for high-end experiences and off-the-beaten-path destinations, Jennifer explores the world with curiosity, depth and a storyteller’s perspective. Her articles are regularly featured on the Associated Press Wire, The Washington Post, Seattle Times, MSN and more.